on orders $100 and over*
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Specs & Features
In order to figure out if the Guide Bar and Saw Chain you plan to use together are compatible, there are (3) key specifications that you must match up:
(1) Pitch, (2) Gauge, and (3) Drive Link Count.
Your bar and saw chain must have the same exact specifications, otherwise they will not work together. Please see the rest of this guide to determine how you will find these exact specifications.
Again, the only specifications you really need to ensure compatibility are Pitch, Gauge, and Drive Link Count of both your guide bar and saw chain.
Chain cutter sequence, is essentially the spacing between the cutters on a chain. Don’t get this confused with the pitch of the chain. This is an important distinction
Pitch measures the distance between links, but not all links include a cutter. A chain’s sequence is the distance between the chain’s cutters.
Standard Sequence chainsaw chain alternates from left cutter to right cutter, with one drive link in between. This is the most common configuration and works great for most applications.
We call this sequence the default for most homeowner chainsaws.
Offers seamless and smooth cuts due to having the most cutters of all cutter sequence types.
Oregon recommends this sequence for a 24″ bar length or less.
View all of our standard sequence saw chain here.
Semi-Skip Sequence chainsaw chain alternates between 1 and 2 drive links, separating cutters. For jobs where neither standard or skip are perfect, semi-skip provides a step between when it comes to amount of cutters and space in between cutters. This allows the chain to be powerful while still producing a decently smooth surface as it cuts. Woodcutters often use this type of chainsaw chain for cutting hardwood.
Consumer users of chainsaws will probably never need to use a semi-skip or skip sequence chain.
Professional or commercial chainsaw operators who use their saws frequently and who use longer bars may prefer a semi-skip or skip chain due to the lesser amount of cutters to sharpen (makes sharpening faster) & its greater clearance for better chip flow (the larger the wood being cut and the longer the bar used, the more important good chip flow becomes).
Oregon recommends this sequence for a 24″ to 32″ bar length.
View all of our semi-skip saw chain here.
Skip Sequence chainsaw chain cutters are separated by 2 drive links in between. With less cutters tearing through the wood than semi-skip, skip sequence chain experiences less drag and can cut even more quickly. Executes rough cuts without hassle.
They work well with low-power saws and/or saws with extremely long bars. Helpful for the these saws because it takes less engine power to run a saw with less cutters.
Don’t use this chain on small-bar units, as this would cause wobbling and produce inaccurate cuts.
Oregon recommends this sequence for a 32″ bar length and up.
View all of our skip sequence saw chain here.
Each type of saw chain, has a different shape cutter. Some are more rounded while some are more square. Then you have tall ones, and short ones and narrow ones…
The cutter styles react with the wood differently. There are cutter types that are suited for larger professional chainsaws and others are suited for smaller chainsaws.
Some cutter types are even more dangerous to use, so it is best to make sure your cutter suits your level of chainsaw experience.
There are four main cutter types, which are; full chisel, semi-chisel and chipper. But then there are some variations of these styles on the market - micro chisel, chamfer chisel, and ripping - that we also go into detail about below.
Full chisel chainsaw chain has squared, sharply pointed cutters that cut wood aggressively. The sharp corners on these cutters allow the chain to move through wood quickly, but are not as durable as other cutter types. It's said that full chisel is the best saw chain for professionals working with hardwood. In most cases, you probably don’t want to use a full chisel chain when cutting dirty or softwood. Full chisel chains lack the safety elements that other chains have, so there is also a high risk of kickback.
We understand that the needs of woodcutters – professionals and novices – are as diverse as the terrains and environments in which they work.
Oregon has organized their saw chains and guide bars into product families with key characteristics that different users will value. These product families will ensure that you choose the right chain and bar based on your everyday needs. It will make understanding the differences between our products effortless. Feel free to click on the titles below to see our company's saw chain offerings.
Oregon uses different names and package types for their saw chain depending on whether it's for a retailer (like Lowes or Home Depot) or a dealer (like us, American Forestry).
While the naming and packaging are different for retail and dealer saw chain, the saw chain itself is actually exactly the same.
Retailer-Packaged Oregon saw chain (Left Photo) is identified by a Letter (S, in this case) followed by the drive link count of the saw chain (52) and comes in "clamshell packaging".
Dealer-Packaged Oregon saw chain (Right Photo) is identified by the Standard Oregon Chain Type (91PX), 3 digits to call out the drive link count (052), and ends with another Letter (customers never have to worry about this last letter). This comes in standard Oregon Saw Chain box (stock photo used - real dealer saw chain box has all of the info regarding specs, compatibility, part #, etc. printed on).
To recap, the S52 and 91PX052G, that we used as examples above, are both exactly the same saw chain, as you can see in the Oregon retail/dealer chain conversion table above.
In the Oregon saw chain world, S=91PX, M=95TXL, H=20BPX, and so on.
In most cases, the "Retailer" saw chain will be much cheaper than the "Dealer" saw chain on our website. If you know your standard Oregon saw chain type, then you can determine the retail chain code (by using the table above) to search for the version you need.
We'll let you in on a little secret. There are two ways that you can figure out the size of your replacement chain even without access to a product manual:
To find a chain replacement, you'll need to figure out three numbers:
The most common measurements of pitch you'll see on replacement chain are 3/8" and .325", but may also be .325” Low Profile, .404”, ¼”, ¾”, or ⅜” Low Profile.
Chain gauge, on the other hand, means the thickness of the drive links of the chain. Your saw chain’s gauge can be determined by measuring the portion of the drive link that fits into the groove of the guide bar, usually expressed in thousandths of an inch. For your reference, normal wear can make it difficult to accurately measure chain gauge on a worn chain.
The most common saw chain gauge sizes are .043" (1.1mm), .050" (1.3mm), .058" (1.5mm), and .063" (1.6mm), but may also be .080” or .122”.
Count the number of drive links on your old chain loop to get the correct replacement chain. Simply count the drive links around the entire loop of saw chain. The drive link count is the last 3 numbers before the last letter on the Oregon chain part number.
For Example, 72LGX072G = 72 Drive Links; 18HX078E = 78 Drive Links.
If your saw chain is no longer self-feeding, you have to push on the saw, or the waste material from your saw creates sawdust, it is time to sharpen your chainsaw chain. A good rule of thumb is to sharpen your chain every time you refill gas.
Please view the video below to see how Oregon recommends sharpening saw chain with files:
Please view our Files, File Handles, File Guides, Depth Gauge Tools, and Complete File Kits (includes round & flat file, assembled file guide, file handle, and depth gauge tool!)
Please view the video below to see how Oregon recommends grinding saw chain with their 520-120, 620-120, 410-120 Bench Grinders. Please use the video time-stamps to jump to the section of the video that you need.
Check out all of our Bench Grinders Here.
Please view the video below to see how Oregon recommends grinding saw chain with their Sure Sharp Mini Grinder.
There are a handful of file sizes that are each meant to sharpen different saw chains, determined by the Pitch of the saw chain. In order to determine the correct file for your needs, you would need to locate the Pitch of your saw chain by using one of the methods mentioned above: finding the code on drive links, etching on bar, or directly measuring the saw chain.
If you have determined the pitch of your saw chain, this table above can be used quite universally with most brands of saw chain.
However, there are some key notes to be careful of when determining the right file:
Please view the recommended file sizes for common Husqvarna saw chain and Stihl chainsaws, below:
Fill your oil reservoir each time you fill your chainsaw’s gas tank. Make sure that your saw chain, guide bar, and sprocket are always receiving oil from the saw during operation.
Keep your saw's chain-oiling system filled with clean bar and chain oil. Oregon bar and chain oil is specifically compounded to provide extra high tackiness and prevent "throw off" even under adverse weather conditions.
As a rule of thumb, you should never put used oil or old motor oil in your saw or on your chain. Used motor oil contains metal shavings that reduce the life of your bar and chain. Additionally, lubricating your bar and chain with used motor oil will void your warranty.
In order to figure out if the Guide Bar and Chainsaw you plan to use together are compatible, you will need to determine (3) key specs for your chainsaw:
(1) “Required Bar Mount,” (2) Pitch, and (3) Gauge
By definition, replacement bars that are interchangeable with the original bar are those that both fit your saw (bar mount and pitch) AND take the same type of chain (pitch and gauge).
In practice, there are several different mount, pitch and gauge combinations in use - even in the chainsaws and bars of a single manufacturer - meaning most guide bars are mutually incompatible. Please view the rest of this guide to learn best practices of finding this info yourself.
Once you have all THREE of these specs determined, use our website's Guide Bar Selector tool to help you find yours and place an order. Use the "Filters" on the left-hand side of the page to narrow down your search results and find exactly what you need.
Like we mentioned above, once you find the Bar Mount, Pitch, and Gauge of the bar you need to replace, you're ready to place an order!
Your chainsaw’s guide bar may have all the information you are looking for stamped right into it. It can usually be found near the back of the bar, where it mounts to the saw.
For instance, in the example above, the chain is 3/8” pitch and .050” gauge with 72 drive links. This, along with the bar mount conversion from above, should be all the information you will need to get the proper replacement guide bar.
Getting accurate measurements from your guide bar can be tricky, especially if your guide bar has heavy user wear/damage or if you don't have the original operator's manual. In most cases, it probably won't make sense to physically measure.
We would recommend determining the Pitch and Gauge of the guide bar you need by using the saw chain you plan to use (as discussed above in the "Saw Chain" FAQ Category). For your reference, you can physically measure the chain OR find the markings on the chain to determine the Pitch and Gauge.
If you'd like to see the easy way to find Pitch and Gauge on your guide bar instead, see the next FAQ tab down: "Where do I LOOK for my guide bar's specs?"
Most chainsaw bars use a superficially similar arrangement of slots and holes for mounting to the chainsaw body. This arrangement is called bar mount (or tail mount). To be compatible, a guide bar and a chainsaw must have a matching bar mount type.
Notice in the photo below the many variations that bar mounts can be oriented. Size and relative location varies between brands and also product lines of a given brand. Sadly, small differences make mounts incompatible: if the holes do not line up, the bar won’t fit or won’t work properly.
To make it easy, we only sell Oregon-brand guide bars. Each chainsaw brand/model will utilize one Oregon bar mount (possibly two, depending if the “old” bar mount has been discontinued/superseded by a newer one).
Oregon has dozens of bar mount variations that are used to accommodate an array of different chainsaws and brands. Please be aware that even though two Oregon bars may have the same bar mount, they may still differ in Pitch and Gauge.
Please use our Guide Bar Selector Tool to filter our guide bars by Bar Mount, Pitch, and Gauge to make sure you're getting a compatible guide bar.
If you are replacing an old Stihl or Husqvarna guide bar, please take a look at our bar mount conversions below to determine which Oregon bar mount you will need for your chainsaw. If your guide bar isn't Stihl or Husqvarna, please go ahead and send us your chainsaw's Brand and Model so we can find it for you.
Oregon’s bar mounts are indicated by the last 4 digits of the part number (one letter followed by three numbers). For example, the Oregon 200RNDD025 would utilize bar mount D025.
Depending on the brand and age of guide bar you use, you'll most likely be able to find your guide bar's bar mount by looking at the part number, guide bar etching, or online using your chainsaw's Brand and Model #.
***If you have trouble finding this info for yourself, please reach out to us with your chainsaw's Brand and Model. We understand this can get quite confusing and have no problem finding the bar mount required for your specific chainsaw***
Stihl bars use three types of bar mounts that can be determined by looking at the first 4 digits of the guide bar part #, usually etched into the guide bar itself:
“3005 - small” (converts to Oregon’s A074);
“3003 - medium” (converts to Oregon’s D025);
“3002 - large” (converts to Oregon’s E031 or *E099 specifically for Stihl 070/090*);
on orders over $100
when provided with model info
outside Washington and Wisconsin