DETERMINING GUIDE BAR & SAW CHAIN COMPATIBILITY

In order to figure out if the Guide Bar and Saw Chain you plan to use together are compatible, there are (3) key specifications that you must match up: 

(1) Pitch, (2) Gauge, and (3) Drive Link Count. 

Your bar and saw chain must have the same exact specifications, otherwise they will not work together. Please see the rest of this guide to determine how you will find these exact specifications.

Once you have all THREE of these specs determined, use our website's Saw Chain Selector tool to help you find yours and place an order. Use the "Filters" on the left-hand side of the page to narrow down your search results and find exactly what you need (see photo below). 


Like we mentioned above, once you find the Pitch, Gauge, and Drive Link Count of the chain you need to replace, you're ready to place an order!

FYI, many retailers call out the length of the saw chain (in inches) as a starting point for customers, but please be aware: determining compatibility solely by length is the most common reason we see for incorrectly ordered saw chains. While a saw chain and guide bar may be the same length in inches, the rest of their specs (Pitch, Gauge, or Drive Link Count) may differ, making the pair incompatible.

Again, the only specifications you really need to ensure compatibility are Pitch, Gauge, and Drive Link Count of both your guide bar and saw chain.

WHERE TO LOOK FOR MEASUREMENTS ON YOUR SAW CHAIN

If you've held on to the packaging that you received your saw chain within, you can usually find the Pitch, Gauge, and Drive Link Count printed somewhere on it. 


No worries if you don't have your saw chain packaging any more. Your old saw chain may also contain all the info you need stamped right onto the drive links. The specific saw chain type will provide you with the Pitch and Gauge. For your reference, Stihl uses an extra marking on the tooth link to determine size.

Please view the different brands’ chain codes, their meanings, and brand-to-brand conversions to Oregon saw chain, below. Once Pitch and Gauge are figured out, all that’s left to do is count and match up the drive links. 

 

             

THE 3 MAIN CUTTER SEQUENCES EXPLAINED 

Chain cutter sequence, is essentially the spacing between the cutters on a chain. Don’t get this confused with the pitch of the chain. This is an important distinction

Pitch measures the distance between links, but not all links include a cutter. A chain’s sequence is the distance between the chain’s cutters.

Standard Sequence chainsaw chain alternates from left cutter to right cutter, with one drive link in between. This is the most common configuration and works great for most applications.

We call this sequence the default for most homeowner chainsaws.

Offers seamless and smooth cuts due to having the most cutters of all cutter sequence types. 

Oregon recommends this sequence for a 24″ bar length or less.

View all of our standard sequence saw chain here.


Semi-Skip Sequence chainsaw chain alternates between 1 and 2 drive links, separating cutters. For jobs where neither standard or skip are perfect, semi-skip provides a step between when it comes to amount of cutters and space in between cutters. This allows the chain to be powerful while still producing a decently smooth surface as it cuts. Woodcutters often use this type of chainsaw chain for cutting hardwood.

Consumer users of chainsaws will probably never need to use a semi-skip or skip sequence chain.

Professional or commercial chainsaw operators who use their saws frequently and who use longer bars may prefer a semi-skip or skip chain due to the lesser amount of cutters to sharpen (makes sharpening faster) & its greater clearance for better chip flow (the larger the wood being cut and the longer the bar used, the more important good chip flow becomes). 

Oregon recommends this sequence for a 24″ to 32″ bar length.

View all of our semi-skip saw chain here.

Skip Sequence chainsaw chain cutters are separated by 2 drive links in between. With less cutters tearing through the wood than semi-skip, skip sequence chain experiences less drag and can cut even more quickly. Executes rough cuts without hassle.

They work well with low-power saws and/or saws with extremely long bars. Helpful for the these saws because it takes less engine power to run a saw with less cutters.

Don’t use this chain on small-bar units, as this would cause wobbling and produce inaccurate cuts.

Oregon recommends this sequence for a 32″ bar length and up.

View all of our skip sequence saw chain here.

THE 6 MAIN CUTTER TYPES EXPLAINED

Each type of saw chain, has a different shape cutter. Some are more rounded while some are more square. Then you have tall ones, and short ones and narrow ones…

The cutter styles react with the wood differently. There are cutter types that are suited for larger professional chainsaws and others are suited for smaller chainsaws.

Some cutter types are even more dangerous to use, so it is best to make sure your cutter suits your level of chainsaw experience.

There are four main cutter types, which are; full chisel, semi-chisel and chipper. But then there are some variations of these styles on the market - micro chisel, chamfer chisel, and ripping - that we also go into detail about below.

Full chisel chainsaw chain has squared, sharply pointed cutters that cut wood aggressively. The sharp corners on these cutters allow the chain to move through wood quickly, but are not as durable as other cutter types. It's said that full chisel is the best saw chain for professionals working with hardwood. In most cases, you probably don’t want to use a full chisel chain when cutting dirty or softwood. Full chisel chains lack the safety elements that other chains have, so there is also a high risk of kickback. 

OREGON CHAIN FAMILIES: UNDERSTANDING THE DIFFERENCES

We understand that the needs of woodcutters – professionals and novices – are as diverse as the terrains and environments in which they work.

Oregon has organized their saw chains and guide bars into product families with key characteristics that different users will value. These product families will ensure that you choose the right chain and bar based on your everyday needs. It will make understanding the differences between our products effortless. Feel free to click on the titles below to see our company's saw chain offerings. 

• POWERCUT
  The ultimate saw chain for loggers and skilled forest workers who use high performance saws. Full chisel cutters power through timber with speed, efficiency, and precision.
• SPEEDCUT & SPEEDCUT NANO
  Faster cutting performance for wood-cutting professionals who use mid-size saws under 55 cc. Narrow kerf system requires less power to cut through high volumes of wood quickly and easily.
• CONTROLCUT
  Ideal for wood cutting professionals looking for a fully featured cutting system that delivers smooth cutting and reduced kickback. Easy to maintain saw chain, with a forgiving sharpening profile.
• RIPCUT SPECIALTY CHAIN
  Ripping chain created specifically for chain-type sawmills. Produces smooth ripping cuts with supreme efficiency to make precise boards and planks.
• POWERSHARP
  Easy-to-use, precision sharpening system that gives chainsaw users the power to sharpen their chain in a matter of seconds with a simple attachment. Patent protected features make PowerSharp a major advance over other sharpening methods.
• SCULPTOR SPECIALTY CHAIN
  Easy to maintain and light-weight for optimum maneuverability. It is the perfect tool for carvers, pruners, and any other user who values extra-fine cutting.
• ADVANCECUT
  Perfect for homeowners or landscapers who occasionally need to cut trees. The low kick-back design makes it easy to get great results, even if you don’t wield a chainsaw every day.
• VERSACUT
  Designed for landowners and tree-cutting professionals who require a multi-purpose, high performing saw chain. Uses cutters designed for maximum durability and versatility.

Oregon's Retail vs. Dealer Saw Chain

Oregon uses different names and package types for their saw chain depending on whether it's for a retailer (like Lowes or Home Depot) or a dealer (like us, American Forestry).

While the naming and packaging are different for retail and dealer saw chain, the saw chain itself is actually exactly the same.     

Retailer-Packaged Oregon saw chain (Left Photo) is identified by a Letter (S, in this case) followed by the drive link count of the saw chain (52) and comes in "clamshell packaging".

Dealer-Packaged Oregon saw chain (Right Photo) is identified by the Standard Oregon Chain Type (91PX), 3 digits to call out the drive link count (052), and ends with another Letter (customers never have to worry about this last letter). This comes in standard Oregon Saw Chain box (stock photo used - real dealer saw chain box has all of the info regarding specs, compatibility, part #, etc. printed on). 



To recap, the S52 and 91PX052G, that we used as examples above, are both exactly the same saw chain, as you can see in the Oregon retail/dealer chain conversion table above.

In the Oregon saw chain world, S=91PX, M=95TXL, H=20BPX, and so on. 

In most cases, the "Retailer" saw chain will be much cheaper than the "Dealer" saw chain on our website. If you know your standard Oregon saw chain type, then you can determine the retail chain code (by using the table above) to search for the version you need.

MEASURING YOUR CHAINSAW CHAIN

We'll let you in on a little secret. There are two ways that you can figure out the size of your replacement chain even without access to a product manual: 

• Measure the chain yourself, using instructions below.
• Look on other parts of the saw for the measurements, most likely on the guide bar OR on the drive links of your saw chain (easiest options).

HOW TO MEASURE CHAINSAW CHAIN YOURSELF

To find a chain replacement, you'll need to figure out three numbers:

• Pitch:  the distance between the chain's drive links
• Gauge: the width of the groove where the chain fits into the bar
• Drive Link Count: # of drive links contained within the loop of chain

MEASURING PITCH

The most common measurements of pitch you'll see on replacement chain are 3/8" and .325", but may also be .325” Low Profile, .404”, ¼”, ¾”, or ⅜” Low Profile. 

MEASURING GAUGE

Chain gauge, on the other hand, means the thickness of the drive links of the chain. Your saw chain’s gauge can be determined by measuring the portion of the drive link that fits into the groove of the guide bar, usually expressed in thousandths of an inch. For your reference, normal wear can make it difficult to accurately measure chain gauge on a worn chain. 

The most common saw chain gauge sizes are .043" (1.1mm), .050" (1.3mm), .058" (1.5mm),  and .063" (1.6mm), but may also be .080” or .122”.

MEASURING DRIVE LINK COUNT

Count the number of drive links on your old chain loop to get the correct replacement chain. Simply count the drive links around the entire loop of saw chain. The drive link count is the last 3 numbers before the last letter on the Oregon chain part number. 

For Example, 72LGX072G = 72 Drive Links; 18HX078E = 78 Drive Links.

SHARPENING YOUR SAW CHAIN

If your saw chain is no longer self-feeding, you have to push on the saw, or the waste material from your saw creates sawdust, it is time to sharpen your chainsaw chain. A good rule of thumb is to sharpen your chain every time you refill gas. 

Please view the video below to see how Oregon recommends sharpening saw chain with files:

Please view our Files, File Handles, File Guides, Depth Gauge Tools, and Complete File Kits (includes round & flat file, assembled file guide, file handle, and depth gauge tool!)

Please view the video below to see how Oregon recommends grinding saw chain with their 520-120, 620-120, 410-120 Bench Grinders. Please use the video time-stamps to jump to the section of the video that you need. 

Check out all of our Bench Grinders Here.

Please view the video below to see how Oregon recommends grinding saw chain with their Sure Sharp Mini Grinder.

DETERMINING THE CORRECT FILE TO USE FOR YOUR SAW CHAIN

GRINDING SIZES/ANGLES FOR OREGON SAW CHAIN

SAW CHAIN LUBRICATION

Fill your oil reservoir each time you fill your chainsaw’s gas tank. Make sure that your saw chain, guide bar, and sprocket are always receiving oil from the saw during operation.

Keep your saw's chain-oiling system filled with clean bar and chain oil. Oregon bar and chain oil is specifically compounded to provide extra high tackiness and prevent "throw off" even under adverse weather conditions. 

As a rule of thumb, you should never put used oil or old motor oil in your saw or on your chain. Used motor oil contains metal shavings that reduce the life of your bar and chain. Additionally, lubricating your bar and chain with used motor oil will void your warranty.

TIPS FOR DEALING WITH COLD-WEATHER WEAR

• Oil
• Use a lighter weight of bar-chain oil, or dilute bar-chain oil 25% with clean kerosene or diesel oil (you’ll need to use twice as much of the diluted oil) and be certain your chain is receiving oil from the saw.
• Cutters
• Keep cutters sharp.
• Touch up every hour, more often if needed.
• Do not force dull chain to cut.
• Bar
• Turn symmetrical bars over to equalize rail wear.
• Keep the bar groove clean and oil holes open.
• Tension
• Check and adjust often.
• Keep your chain correctly tensioned.
• Depth Gauges
• It's recommended to check the bite of cutters is regulated by the height of the leading portion of each cutter, commonly known as the depth gauge.
• Check and adjust your cutter's depth gauges at every sharpening.
• Drive Sprocket
• Be sure to read the operator's manual supplied with your chainsaw in its entirety.
• Replace the sprocket after every two chains, or sooner if wear is evident.