Oregon Chain Families: Understanding the Differences

We understand that the needs of woodcutters – professionals and novices – are as diverse as the terrains and environments in which they work.

Oregon has organized their saw chains and guide bars into product families with key characteristics that different users will value. These product families will ensure that you choose the right chain and bar based on your everyday needs. It will make understanding the differences between our products effortless. Feel free to click on the titles below to see our company's saw chain offerings. 

• POWERCUT
  The ultimate saw chain for loggers and skilled forest workers who use high performance saws. Full chisel cutters power through timber with speed, efficiency, and precision.
• SPEEDCUT & SPEEDCUT NANO
  Faster cutting performance for wood-cutting professionals who use mid-size saws under 55 cc. Narrow kerf system requires less power to cut through high volumes of wood quickly and easily.
• CONTROLCUT
  Ideal for wood cutting professionals looking for a fully featured cutting system that delivers smooth cutting and reduced kickback. Easy to maintain saw chain, with a forgiving sharpening profile.
• RIPCUT SPECIALTY CHAIN
  Ripping chain created specifically for chain-type sawmills. Produces smooth ripping cuts with supreme efficiency to make precise boards and planks.
• POWERSHARP
  Easy-to-use, precision sharpening system that gives chainsaw users the power to sharpen their chain in a matter of seconds with a simple attachment. Patent protected features make PowerSharp a major advance over other sharpening methods.
• SCULPTOR SPECIALTY CHAIN
  Easy to maintain and light-weight for optimum maneuverability. It is the perfect tool for carvers, pruners, and any other user who values extra-fine cutting.
• ADVANCECUT
  Perfect for homeowners or landscapers who occasionally need to cut trees. The low kick-back design makes it easy to get great results, even if you don’t wield a chainsaw every day.
• VERSACUT
  Designed for landowners and tree-cutting professionals who require a multi-purpose, high performing saw chain. Uses cutters designed for maximum durability and versatility.

There are a handful of file sizes that are each meant to sharpen different saw chains, determined by the Pitch of the saw chain. In order to determine the correct file for your needs, you would need to locate the Pitch of your saw chain by using one of the methods mentioned above: finding the code on drive links, etching on bar, or directly measuring the saw chain. 

If you have determined the pitch of your saw chain, this table above can be used quite universally with most brands of saw chain. 

However, there are some key notes to be careful of when determining the right file:

• Round files go only with round grind teeth. If you notice straight sections and multiple angles on the cutting edge, check the specific filing instructions for that chain model.
• Regular and Low Profile Saw Chain require different size files. 3/8” and 1/4” Pitch chains come also in Low Profile (Picco) versions, which have lower cutters and take a smaller file.
• Manufacturer recommendations vary from time to time, meaning it's always worth it to check your specific saw chain’s manufacturer recommendation. ***Sometimes intermediate sizes, 11/64” and 13/64”, are recommended instead of the XX/32” sizes.***

File Size Conversions by Popular Brands

Please view the recommended file sizes for common Husqvarna saw chain and Stihl chainsaws, below:

Filing and Grinding Sizes/Angles for Oregon Saw Chain

If you are filing/grinding a saw chain other than Oregon, please use the saw chain converters above to determine the correct angles for your saw chain. Grind your chain so that it meets the recommendations of the manufacturer. 

Saw Chain Lubrication

Fill your oil reservoir each time you fill your chainsaw’s gas tank. Make sure that your saw chain, guide bar, and sprocket are always receiving oil from the saw during operation.

Keep your saw's chain-oiling system filled with clean bar and chain oil. Oregon bar and chain oil is specifically compounded to provide extra high tackiness and prevent "throw off" even under adverse weather conditions. 

As a rule of thumb, you should never put used oil or old motor oil in your saw or on your chain. Used motor oil contains metal shavings that reduce the life of your bar and chain. Additionally, lubricating your bar and chain with used motor oil will void your warranty.

Tips for Dealing with Cold-Weather Wear

• Oil
• Use a lighter weight of bar-chain oil, or dilute bar-chain oil 25% with clean kerosene or diesel oil (you’ll need to use twice as much of the diluted oil) and be certain your chain is receiving oil from the saw.
• Cutters
• Keep cutters sharp.
• Touch up every hour, more often if needed.
• Do not force dull chain to cut.
• Bar
• Turn symmetrical bars over to equalize rail wear.
• Keep the bar groove clean and oil holes open.
• Tension
• Check and adjust often.
• Keep your chain correctly tensioned.
• Depth Gauges
• It's recommended to check the bite of cutters is regulated by the height of the leading portion of each cutter, commonly known as the depth gauge.
• Check and adjust your cutter's depth gauges at every sharpening.
• Drive Sprocket
• Be sure to read the operator's manual supplied with your chainsaw in its entirety.
• Replace the sprocket after every two chains, or sooner if wear is evident.

Granberg Alaskan Saw Mills

Making Lumber

Download PDF Here!

Chainsaw Power Requirements

In general, you will need at least 50cc to run our smallest mill (G777). The more powerful your saw, the easier your milling experience is going to be. Consult the chart to see if your chainsaw has enough power to do the job you want it to do. Under-powered saws will take longer to make a cut and may overheat and possibly fail. You will definitely want to use a ripping chain and take your time. Granberg will not take responsibility for damage caused by using saws that are under-powered. We also recommend against using battery or electric saws.

Wedging Techniques for use with Mills

It's important to have proper wedges. Depending on the size of the log you are milling, the weight of the slab or beam may be pinching the chain. Using wedges as you move through the cut can help lift the wood out of the way. Wedge early, wedge often. You can buy some on our website here if you don't have any at home.

A good wedge is at least 6″ long, 3″ wide and tapered from 3/4″ to 0″. Best to put at least 5 in your back pocket or tool pouch. After you cut into the log, about 2 feet, put the first wedge into the beginning of your cut. Then put a wedge in every two feet.

Larger, thicker slabs require more support, meaning use more wedges and tapping them in really well.

Lighter, smaller slabs require less support, meaning use less wedges and giving just a quick tap.

Can I Put a Larger Mill on a Smaller Bar?

Yes, all of our MKIII Alaskan mills can be adapted to fit a smaller bar, because the thickness rails have a channel all the way down that will allow the depth post to be moved. So, if you have a 32” bar, you will want a 36” mill (G778-36). The nose end depth post can be adjusted down to fit the smaller bar.

Likewise, if you have a 36” bar at the moment, but are maybe thinking about investing in a larger bar, you can buy a 48” mill (G778-48) and put it on the smaller bar until you get the upgrade.

One consideration you will have to make is although you can put a larger mill on a smaller bar, the mill size itself will not change, so you will need enough room to operate a 48” mill even if you are only using a 36” bar. This is really only an issue in the thickest of brush. If you’re milling in your driveway or front yard, you shouldn’t have a problem.

Milling Tips for First Time Users

Learn from Mr. Erik Granberg, President of Granberg International the tips and tricks to getting the best results from your Alaskan Chainsaw Mill.

VIDEO RECAP

1. THREE important things to consider before milling. One, does your chainsaw have enough power? (see bar/power reference chart). Two, ripping chain is necessary! Three, a first cut system to assist in your first cut. (0:35)

2. Inspect log and debark. Check diameter of log vs the cutting width of mill. Is your mill going to make it through the cut? There may be a section that is too wide. This can be trimmed before milling. (2:00)

3. Mount Alaskan Mill onto bar. Adjust to fit bar. Avoid clamping down on the sprocket nose. Tighten all hardware. The clamping bolts for the bar and end bracket require 10-12 pounds of torque. Tighten evenly. All other carriage bolts use 8-10 pounds of tightening torque. Do not over tighten, this only weakens the bolts. (3:15)

4. Tool kit check. (11:07)

5. Safety Equipment. Chaps, gloves, boots, eye and ear protection are required! (11:51)

6. Make sure your wedges are handy! (12:20)

7. Best way to start your second cut. (13:17)

8. Wedging tips while milling. (14:18)

9. What to look, listen and feel for while milling. (14:54)

10. How to exit the cut. To keep the mill from dipping when exiting cut, put a little back pressure on upright handle and support the powerhead. (17:24)

Arborist Rope Care

Climbing Rope VS. Rigging Rope

Your ropes are, of course, some of your most essential pieces of tree gear. To start from the beginning, it’s important to understand features and specific purpose:

• Climbing ropes are used to secure an arborist to the tree. These ropes will help you ascend and descend the tree, and are not designed for any other task. See our collection of Climbing Ropes Here.

Climbing ropes have a little bit of stretch, unlike lowering ropes which have next to no stretch. This feature is important for climbing, as it helps absorb the kinetic force of a sudden stop in the event of a climber’s fall, helping to prevent serious back injuries, but mustn’t be too great or it would absorb too much energy in the climbing process and cause premature fatigue.

Arborist climbing ropes must be certified to EN1891. This should be marked on the rope, along with a serial or identification number.

• Lowering or rigging ropes, on the other hand, are used to lower and move tree limbs or sections of wood. Lowering ropes are not suitable for climbing for several reasons: firstly, they’re not safety certified for such. Secondly, the composition of the rope is optimized for rigging, not for climbing. Thirdly, the wear and tear that rigging ropes go through does weaken them, meaning it cannot be relied on as a PPE item. See our collection of Rigging Ropes Here.

SELECTING the Rope

Selecting a rope involves evaluating a combination of factors. Some of these factors are straight forward like comparing rope specifications. Others are less quantitative like a preference for a specific color or how a rope feels in your hand.

Fiber and construction being equal, a larger rope will outlast a smaller rope, because of the greater surface wear distribution. By the same token, a stronger rope will outlast a weaker one, because it will be used at a lower percentage of its break strength with less chance of overstressing.

Consider the opinion of professional climbers who may have more experience as to how well a rope performs. Consider also the reputation of the rope manufacturer. Are they involved with and supportive of the arborist industry? Do they stand behind their products with consistent quality and reliable service? Buying unproven ropes because they are a little less expensive is false economy and can lead to disaster

Some things to consider when looking at ropes are:

• Strength
  
  When given a choice between ropes, select the strongest of any given size. A load of 200 pounds represents 2% of the strength of a rope with a breaking strength of 10,000 pounds. The same load represents 4% of the strength of a rope that has a breaking strength of 5,000 pounds. The weaker rope is having to work harder and as a result will have to be retired sooner. Braided ropes are stronger than twisted ropes that are the same size and fiber type.
• Elongation
  
  It is well accepted that ropes with lower elongation under load will give you better load control, a big help at complicated job sites. However, ropes with lower elongation that are shock loaded, like a lowering line, can fail without warning even though it appears to be in good shape. Low elongating ropes should be selected with the highest possible strength. Both twisted ropes and braided ropes are suitable for rigging. Twisted rope has lower strength and more stretch. Braided rope has higher strength and lower stretch.
• Firmness
  
  Select ropes that are firm and round and hold their shape during use. Soft or mushy ropes will snag easily and abrade quickly causing accelerated strength loss. Because the fibers are in a straighter line, which improves strength but compromises durability, loose or mushy rope will almost always have higher break strengths than a similar rope that is firm and holds its shape.

USING the Rope

• Working Loads
  

  Working loads are the loads that a rope is subjected to in everyday activity. They are normally expressed as a percentage of new rope strength and should not exceed 20% for rigging lines and 10% for climbing lines. A point to remember is that a rope may be severely overloaded or shock loaded in use without breaking. However, damage and strength loss may have occurred without any visible indication. The next time the rope is used under normal working loads the acquired weakness can cause it to break. Do not blame the rope, it was simply overloaded and failed from what is known as fatigue.

  
  
• Shock Loads
  
  Shock loads are simply a sudden change in tension – from a state of relaxation or low load to one of high load. Any sudden load that exceeds the work load by more than 10% is considered a shock load. The further an object falls, the greater the impact. Synthetic fibers have a memory and retain the effects of being overloaded or shock loaded and can fail at a later time, even though loaded within the normal working load range.
• Cleanliness
  
  Modern arborists ropes often have 12, 16, or even 24 strands of fiber bundles making up their constructions. Dirt and grit can work their way in between the strands where they act like tiny knives. As the rope flexes, the grit and abrasives can act like tiny knives, cutting away at the strands of the rope from inside. This is why it is important to keep your ropes as clean as possible, especially if you are working in an area with lots of sand or grit. A brush tarp or rope tarp laid out at the base of the tree to pile the rope on is a great way to keep it clean. Better still is deploying the rope directly from an arborist rope bag. This ensures that the rope stays as clean as possible, and also helps prevent tangles and snags. View our collection of Rope Bags Here. Ropes can also be washed, either by hand in a rope washer or by placing it in a mesh rope-washing sack and washing it in a front-loading washing machine with a gentle detergent or Rope Soap. Chemical solvents or abrasive cleaners should NEVER be used on an arborist rope. Always let your ropes dry before storing them to prevent mildew and mold